Forget about marinades, at least on the grill.That may sound like backyard apostasy, since common knowledge holds that grilling and marinating go together like ... well, fill in your favorite eternal twosome here. You can't open a cookbook or look at a restaurant menu without seeing them paired.It may be due at least partly to the fact that a "tequila marinated grilled flank steak" sounds more enticing that just a plain old steak. But there's also a well-rehearsed rationale for the partnership.
Marinating, it's said, not only adds flavor and moisture that will stay with the food through the rigors of the grilling process, but also tenderizes whatever you're about to put over the coals.There's only one problem with this comforting culinary scenario: as we've learned over 20-plus years of grilling, it's mostly just not true.Let's take the supposed advantages of marinades one by one.First, the idea that it tenderizes your food. While it's true that acids in marinades have somewhat of a tenderizing effect on proteins, it is limited to the proteins with which they come into contact. As you will see if you cut open a piece of chicken or steak that's been sitting for a couple of hours or even overnight in a marinade, the liquid penetrates hardly at all. This means that only the outer surface of the food is affected. And even this isn't that helpful, because in our experience what actually happens is that the surface just gets slightly mushy - not a desirable effect.Second, marinades deliver relatively subdued flavors, which is not what you're going for in grilling.Even when marinades include powerful flavor-carriers such as spices, they are diluted by the liquid in which they swim. Think how this differs from simply coating whatever you're about to grill with a spice rub. Since rubs consist of pretty much nothing but spices and are applied directly to the food, you get the full effect of their deep flavors, further intensified by their interaction with the heat of the fire.As long as you hold back on the salt, you can slather on these rubs as thickly as you like. And because they are solid rather than liquid, they stick to the food better. Liquid on a damp piece of meat just doesn't compete.But there's more to it than that. In addition to being diluted, the flavors in a marinade are melded, blended together. For other kinds of cooking, more subtle cooking, that may be considered a virtue. What starts out as a collection of simple individual flavors ends up as a more rounded, fuller and complex single flavor.But we're talking about grilling, a cooking technique that creates bold flavors and calls for other, similarly forceful flavors. We prefer dishes in which the strong, clear, individual tastes of each ingredient come at you simultaneously.This coordinated cacophony of tastes is a singular characteristic of a big flavor approach to cooking, and the one which gives it much of its appeal. Sweet without hot, sour without aromatic, or earthy without bitter is not that interesting. When you meld all the ingredients, as you do in a marinade, then they lose their punch and their singularity.If it is hard to imagine giving up altogether the flavor that comes from liquids like wine or vinegar, take heart. Recently, we've found a new way to take the marinade-free flavor dynamic to a new level, simply by keeping all the ingredients separate until the last minute. In this approach, we might use liquid, but after the cooking.To get an idea of what we're talking about, think about Italian dressing, which was, of course, a favorite quick marinade in the old days. After you soak, say, some lamb skewers in this dressing for a while and then grill them, what you get is grilled lamb with a kind of vague mix of vinegar, oil and faded herb taste. Contrast this with grilling the lamb, then putting it in a bowl and adding the vinegar, the oil and whatever herbs you chose. You'll get the smoothness of the oil, the sharp hit of the vinegar, the aroma of the herbs and the sweet meatiness of the lamb, each distinct flavor complementing and reinforcing the others.You get the ease of last-minute preparation and brighter, clearer, more direct flavors. Plus there's the fun of showing off a bit for your guests as you mix and toss at the last minute. Welcome to the post-marinade era of grilling.
Grilled Baby Back Ribs with Spicy Peanut ShakeTime: About 50 minutesYield: 6 appetizer servings, 3 to 4 entree servings.2/3 cup dry-roasted peanuts, finely chopped1 tablespoon roasted sesame oil1 1/2 teaspoons chili powder1/4 cup thinly sliced scallions2 racks of baby back ribs, about 2 1/4 pounds eachSalt and pepper to taste1/3 cup hoisin sauce1/4 cup soy sauce1/4 cup orange juice (freshly squeezed is best)2 tablespoons minced gingerKosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste1. Make the shake: Heat oven to 350 degrees. Combine the peanuts, sesame oil and chili powder in a small bowl and mix well, then put in a sauté pan over medium-low heat and toast, tossing occasionally, until light brown and very fragrant, about 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat. When the mixture has cooled to room temperature, stir in the scallions and set aside.2. Meanwhile, build a fire in your grill; when the coals are all covered with gray ash and the temperature is medium low (you can hold your hand 5 inches above the coals for about 7 seconds), you're ready to cook. (For a gas grill, turn all burners to high, lower cover and heat for 15 minutes, then turn burners to medium low.)3. Sprinkle the ribs generously with salt and pepper, put them on the grill directly over the coals, and cook until a peek inside shows that the meat no longer has any pink at the center, about 10 to 12 minutes per side.4. While the ribs are grilling, prepare all the remaining ingredients but keep in separate containers.5. Take the racks of ribs off the grill, cut them into individual ribs, and put them in a large bowl. Add the hoisin, soy, orange juice and ginger one after another and toss with spirit. Lay the ribs out on a platter, sprinkle with the spicy peanut shake and serve.
Simple Lamb Kebabs with Greek Flavors
Time: About 30 minutesYield: 4 entree servings2 pounds boneless leg of lamb1/4 cup plus 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oilSalt and pepper to tasteJuice of 2 lemons2 tablespoons minced garlic1/3 cup roughly chopped fresh marjoram1. Build a fire in your grill; when the coals are covered with gray ash and the temperature is
medium high (you can hold your hand 5 inches above the coals for 3 to 4 seconds), you're
ready to cook. (For a gas grill, turn all burners to high, lower cover and heat for 15 minutes, then turn burners to medium high.)2. While the fire is heating up, trim the lamb of all but a thin layer of fat and cut into 32 more-or-less-equal chunks. Combine in a bowl with the 1/4 cup of olive oil and salt and pepper and toss well to coat, then thread them onto skewers, about 8 chunks per skewer; they should snuggle up to one another but not be tightly pressed.3. Put the skewers directly over the coals and cook, turning to expose all 4 sides to the direct heat of the coals, until done to your liking, 2 to 3 minutes a side (8 to 12 minutes total) for medium rare. To check for doneness, cut into one of the chunks and check to see if it is done to your liking - remove from the heat when it is just slightly less done than you want it to be when you eat it.4. While the lamb is cooking, prepare the remaining ingredients but keep in separate containers. Slide the lamb chunks off the skewers into a large bowl, add the lemon juice, garlic and marjoram one after another, toss well to coat, season to taste if needed and serve.
Grilled Cherry Tomatoes with Curry and Golden RaisinsTime: About 30 minutesYield: 4 side-dish servings.1 pint cherry tomatoes, washed and stemmed3 tablespoons olive oilSalt and freshly ground pepper to taste1/2 cup yogurt1/4 cup golden raisins1/3 cup roughly chopped fresh mint3 teaspoons curry powder1. Build a fire in your grill; when the flames have died down, all the coals are covered with gray ash and the temperature is medium (you can hold your hand 5 inches above the grill for about 5 seconds), you're ready to cook. (For a gas grill, turn all burners to high, lower cover and heat for 15 minutes, then turn burners to medium.)2. Meanwhile, toss the cherry tomatoes with the oil, sprinkle them generously with the salt and pepper and thread them onto skewers loosely enough so they are just touching. Prepare the remaining ingredients but keep them separate.3. Put the tomato skewers on the grill directly over the coals and cook, rolling around a few times, just until they are slightly soft and a bit blistered, 3 to 4 minutes. Slide the tomatoes off the skewers into a large bowl, add the yogurt, raisins, mint and curry powder one after another, toss, season to taste if needed and serve.
Grilled Chicken Skewers with Deconstructed PestoTime: About 40 minutesYield: 4 to 6 entree servings.3 pounds of boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch chunks1/4 cup plus 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oilSalt and pepper to taste1 cup grated Parmesan (about 2 ounces)1 cup roughly chopped fresh basil1/3 cup toasted pine nuts4 teaspoons minced garlic1. Build a fire in your grill; when the flames have died down, all the coals are covered with gray
ash and the temperature is medium (you can hold your hand 5 inches above the grill for about 5 seconds), you're ready to cook. (For a gas grill, turn all burners to high, lower cover and heat for 15 minutes, then turn burners to medium.)2. Combine the chicken, 3 tablespoons of olive oil and salt and pepper in a large bowl and toss well to coat, then thread the chicken chunks onto the skewers so they press up against one another but aren't jammed together. Prepare the other ingredients but keep them separate.3. Put the skewers on the grill directly over the coals and cook, rolling the skewers around every 3 to 4 minutes to ensure all the sides are more or less evenly exposed to the heat, until lightly seared, about 12 to 14 minutes. To check for doneness, make a small cut and peek inside a couple of the chunks to be sure they are opaque all the way through with no pink.4. Slide the chicken chunks off the skewers into a large bowl, add all the other ingredients one after the other, toss well to coat evenly, season to taste if needed and serve.© 2013 New York Times News Service
Marinating, it's said, not only adds flavor and moisture that will stay with the food through the rigors of the grilling process, but also tenderizes whatever you're about to put over the coals.There's only one problem with this comforting culinary scenario: as we've learned over 20-plus years of grilling, it's mostly just not true.Let's take the supposed advantages of marinades one by one.First, the idea that it tenderizes your food. While it's true that acids in marinades have somewhat of a tenderizing effect on proteins, it is limited to the proteins with which they come into contact. As you will see if you cut open a piece of chicken or steak that's been sitting for a couple of hours or even overnight in a marinade, the liquid penetrates hardly at all. This means that only the outer surface of the food is affected. And even this isn't that helpful, because in our experience what actually happens is that the surface just gets slightly mushy - not a desirable effect.Second, marinades deliver relatively subdued flavors, which is not what you're going for in grilling.Even when marinades include powerful flavor-carriers such as spices, they are diluted by the liquid in which they swim. Think how this differs from simply coating whatever you're about to grill with a spice rub. Since rubs consist of pretty much nothing but spices and are applied directly to the food, you get the full effect of their deep flavors, further intensified by their interaction with the heat of the fire.As long as you hold back on the salt, you can slather on these rubs as thickly as you like. And because they are solid rather than liquid, they stick to the food better. Liquid on a damp piece of meat just doesn't compete.But there's more to it than that. In addition to being diluted, the flavors in a marinade are melded, blended together. For other kinds of cooking, more subtle cooking, that may be considered a virtue. What starts out as a collection of simple individual flavors ends up as a more rounded, fuller and complex single flavor.But we're talking about grilling, a cooking technique that creates bold flavors and calls for other, similarly forceful flavors. We prefer dishes in which the strong, clear, individual tastes of each ingredient come at you simultaneously.This coordinated cacophony of tastes is a singular characteristic of a big flavor approach to cooking, and the one which gives it much of its appeal. Sweet without hot, sour without aromatic, or earthy without bitter is not that interesting. When you meld all the ingredients, as you do in a marinade, then they lose their punch and their singularity.If it is hard to imagine giving up altogether the flavor that comes from liquids like wine or vinegar, take heart. Recently, we've found a new way to take the marinade-free flavor dynamic to a new level, simply by keeping all the ingredients separate until the last minute. In this approach, we might use liquid, but after the cooking.To get an idea of what we're talking about, think about Italian dressing, which was, of course, a favorite quick marinade in the old days. After you soak, say, some lamb skewers in this dressing for a while and then grill them, what you get is grilled lamb with a kind of vague mix of vinegar, oil and faded herb taste. Contrast this with grilling the lamb, then putting it in a bowl and adding the vinegar, the oil and whatever herbs you chose. You'll get the smoothness of the oil, the sharp hit of the vinegar, the aroma of the herbs and the sweet meatiness of the lamb, each distinct flavor complementing and reinforcing the others.You get the ease of last-minute preparation and brighter, clearer, more direct flavors. Plus there's the fun of showing off a bit for your guests as you mix and toss at the last minute. Welcome to the post-marinade era of grilling.
Grilled Baby Back Ribs with Spicy Peanut ShakeTime: About 50 minutesYield: 6 appetizer servings, 3 to 4 entree servings.2/3 cup dry-roasted peanuts, finely chopped1 tablespoon roasted sesame oil1 1/2 teaspoons chili powder1/4 cup thinly sliced scallions2 racks of baby back ribs, about 2 1/4 pounds eachSalt and pepper to taste1/3 cup hoisin sauce1/4 cup soy sauce1/4 cup orange juice (freshly squeezed is best)2 tablespoons minced gingerKosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste1. Make the shake: Heat oven to 350 degrees. Combine the peanuts, sesame oil and chili powder in a small bowl and mix well, then put in a sauté pan over medium-low heat and toast, tossing occasionally, until light brown and very fragrant, about 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat. When the mixture has cooled to room temperature, stir in the scallions and set aside.2. Meanwhile, build a fire in your grill; when the coals are all covered with gray ash and the temperature is medium low (you can hold your hand 5 inches above the coals for about 7 seconds), you're ready to cook. (For a gas grill, turn all burners to high, lower cover and heat for 15 minutes, then turn burners to medium low.)3. Sprinkle the ribs generously with salt and pepper, put them on the grill directly over the coals, and cook until a peek inside shows that the meat no longer has any pink at the center, about 10 to 12 minutes per side.4. While the ribs are grilling, prepare all the remaining ingredients but keep in separate containers.5. Take the racks of ribs off the grill, cut them into individual ribs, and put them in a large bowl. Add the hoisin, soy, orange juice and ginger one after another and toss with spirit. Lay the ribs out on a platter, sprinkle with the spicy peanut shake and serve.
Simple Lamb Kebabs with Greek Flavors
Time: About 30 minutesYield: 4 entree servings2 pounds boneless leg of lamb1/4 cup plus 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oilSalt and pepper to tasteJuice of 2 lemons2 tablespoons minced garlic1/3 cup roughly chopped fresh marjoram1. Build a fire in your grill; when the coals are covered with gray ash and the temperature is
medium high (you can hold your hand 5 inches above the coals for 3 to 4 seconds), you're
ready to cook. (For a gas grill, turn all burners to high, lower cover and heat for 15 minutes, then turn burners to medium high.)2. While the fire is heating up, trim the lamb of all but a thin layer of fat and cut into 32 more-or-less-equal chunks. Combine in a bowl with the 1/4 cup of olive oil and salt and pepper and toss well to coat, then thread them onto skewers, about 8 chunks per skewer; they should snuggle up to one another but not be tightly pressed.3. Put the skewers directly over the coals and cook, turning to expose all 4 sides to the direct heat of the coals, until done to your liking, 2 to 3 minutes a side (8 to 12 minutes total) for medium rare. To check for doneness, cut into one of the chunks and check to see if it is done to your liking - remove from the heat when it is just slightly less done than you want it to be when you eat it.4. While the lamb is cooking, prepare the remaining ingredients but keep in separate containers. Slide the lamb chunks off the skewers into a large bowl, add the lemon juice, garlic and marjoram one after another, toss well to coat, season to taste if needed and serve.
Grilled Cherry Tomatoes with Curry and Golden RaisinsTime: About 30 minutesYield: 4 side-dish servings.1 pint cherry tomatoes, washed and stemmed3 tablespoons olive oilSalt and freshly ground pepper to taste1/2 cup yogurt1/4 cup golden raisins1/3 cup roughly chopped fresh mint3 teaspoons curry powder1. Build a fire in your grill; when the flames have died down, all the coals are covered with gray ash and the temperature is medium (you can hold your hand 5 inches above the grill for about 5 seconds), you're ready to cook. (For a gas grill, turn all burners to high, lower cover and heat for 15 minutes, then turn burners to medium.)2. Meanwhile, toss the cherry tomatoes with the oil, sprinkle them generously with the salt and pepper and thread them onto skewers loosely enough so they are just touching. Prepare the remaining ingredients but keep them separate.3. Put the tomato skewers on the grill directly over the coals and cook, rolling around a few times, just until they are slightly soft and a bit blistered, 3 to 4 minutes. Slide the tomatoes off the skewers into a large bowl, add the yogurt, raisins, mint and curry powder one after another, toss, season to taste if needed and serve.
Grilled Chicken Skewers with Deconstructed PestoTime: About 40 minutesYield: 4 to 6 entree servings.3 pounds of boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch chunks1/4 cup plus 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oilSalt and pepper to taste1 cup grated Parmesan (about 2 ounces)1 cup roughly chopped fresh basil1/3 cup toasted pine nuts4 teaspoons minced garlic1. Build a fire in your grill; when the flames have died down, all the coals are covered with gray
ash and the temperature is medium (you can hold your hand 5 inches above the grill for about 5 seconds), you're ready to cook. (For a gas grill, turn all burners to high, lower cover and heat for 15 minutes, then turn burners to medium.)2. Combine the chicken, 3 tablespoons of olive oil and salt and pepper in a large bowl and toss well to coat, then thread the chicken chunks onto the skewers so they press up against one another but aren't jammed together. Prepare the other ingredients but keep them separate.3. Put the skewers on the grill directly over the coals and cook, rolling the skewers around every 3 to 4 minutes to ensure all the sides are more or less evenly exposed to the heat, until lightly seared, about 12 to 14 minutes. To check for doneness, make a small cut and peek inside a couple of the chunks to be sure they are opaque all the way through with no pink.4. Slide the chicken chunks off the skewers into a large bowl, add all the other ingredients one after the other, toss well to coat evenly, season to taste if needed and serve.© 2013 New York Times News Service
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